The National
Portrait Gallery collection at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington DC
includes more than hundred thousands of portrait records. Long-time ago before
the narcissist’ ‘selfies’ were taken with one press of the button on the mobile
phone and cameras were invented, upper class citizens requested to make a
portrait to preserve the image of the notable Americans, notable American
subjects, and also made by notable American artists. The significance of the assessment
of importance of portraiture is in the great value of the images that able to
bring alive the expressions of identity, the detail-oriented costumes of the
historical period, with such amazing quality that unfolds every piece of
fabric, the purple velvet of the rich businessman’s jacket, and the blue and
red with golden décor of generals’ uniforms, and the softness of lace and
shines of the ribbons, skilled needlework, etc.
Paint and the
needle; artist always have been inspired to paint, draw and sculpt beautiful
women in the clothes they wore. Many times, fashion designers got inspiration
from artists’ work or artistic movements and incorporated their artwork ideas
into their fashion designs. Women were looking at themselves at the mirrors,
with other mirror behind to reflect the back of her head to demonstrate to us
the 3-D image of great natural expressions, full wardrobe, jewelry and the
fashion accessories of the historic period. There is an ancient belief that
mirrors cannot lie: “Looking-glass upon the wall, who is fairest of us all?”
(Grimm & Grimm, 1882) The mirror is the antipode of the musk, because
mirrors accurately reflect the truth, the beauty, and our morality.
Almost hundred years ago, Ethel
Traphagen, one of the first American female fashion designer and the 1911th
New York Times first-prize evening
dress winner, got inspired from an American painter, James Whistler. James
Whistler originally was trained in Paris and later lived in London. He was
influenced by the work of French Impressionists by the Japanese woodblock
prints. He used smoky colors in night-time scenes to create the mysterious
effects in his Nocturne paintings. Ethel Traphagen had been motivated and
stimulated by one of these scenes and used the image to design a dress of blue
chiffon layered over putty hue colored silk. Elizabeth Hawes was another
well-known figure in the fashion industry in the 1930s. She traveled to Paris
and lived above the Shakespeare and Company bookstore, a place where many
talented people such as Ernest Hemingway and George Gershwin borrowed books and
mingled and met other people. Elizabeth Hawes wanted her clothes to move as
three-dimensional mobiles that her friend and artist Alexander Calder created.
She was not shy to incorporate the abstract elements from Spanish artist Joan
Miro used in his paintings in her capes and vests. O’ yes, these ladies knew
how manipulate the data, and create the compositional interpretation from one
media into another.
The fashion industry is almost like the
iceberg as we can see on the runways as the above the water the strong,
confident and beautiful part of it to pleasure our eye-view. But beneath the
iceberg is hidden underwater world the hard-work of sketching the ideas, drawing
and cutting patterns to create sample garments, select fabrics and trimmings,
dressmaking and tailoring principles, fitting
and modifying the finished garment, teamwork, communication, marketing and
more. People say it is only in the dictionary, the word ‘success’ comes before
the word ‘work.’ Beneath the industry iceberg standing influential individuals
that are ready to change characteristics and preferences, create new styles and
trends of chic and practicality by attracting consumers to buy their outfits,
and matching accessories.
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